Understand the problem with getting an accurate time for tides. Looking at it, all the northern ports ( Ubay, Talibon ect ) use the Cebu data.
But jetafe and jagna are earlier by up to 20 minutes.
Seems the flow comes from the south maybe?
This may be difficult, I watched this minutes after you uploaded but only now have come to a possibility some hours later. On the “front” end walls is it possible to put metal channel and fix it to the concrete and have no bottom channel and sink a ,say, 10mm metal sheet to slide up and down. Point being, metal sheet can sink into mud, water can push against back side of channel thereby not letting water through. If channel is fixed to wall and wall is rough it can be sealed. If two metal ‘brackets’ are bolted not welded they can be used to pull up the sheet. The equipment needed may well be on the workshop of the big guy who is the inventor and driftwood carpenter, I think it’s understandable if not I can draw and send to email.
I have made hundreds of water gates in my previous working life,,my opinion is that the wooden slide becomes buoyant,,no pressure is exerted on seal,,in my opinion from my armchair is to place a couple of sandbags on top of the slide to hold it down,,but then again,Brian could be right in his thoughts that the cement around the barrel is not sealing
I was thinking, that maybe an inflatable bladder of some kind between the boards instead of mud. You might have it custom made, but luckily, labor is “cheap”. Also, I was thinking a salvage lift bag might fit in that channel in front of the opening.
If you had the budget the some angle iron channel down those channels the boards fit in could be placed and a steel plate (1/4”x?wx6’L)slid between and a winch to slide it up and down. The sheer weight will seal in the mud below. Plywood form at end of barrel and much more mortar completely covering the barrel. I like the 2 sheets of plywood idea too. I know budgets.
Old sluice box could be washout under floor on discharge of water over years when you seal sluice gate if still leaking this could be the problem ..Go find a old boy who has experience and knowledge of fish ponds am sure their around to give advice cost a tenner you don’t know what you don’t know .No need to reinvent the wheel they have been sealing sluice boxes for generations in Asia .Good Luck
Have a look at the video when setting the check valve into place.
6 minutes into the video you were holding back the pond water with the boards and mud.
They couldn’t have been seated down properly before.
Keep it simple,
Thats all i am saying.
Ok call me crazy but hear me out.
With the water out, low tide, and your check gate board in place use a 5 gal bucket as a form and build cement around it to completely encase it about a foot deep all the way around.
It will deduce the flow area but give you an increased seal area. I’d give it a try but I’m not in your situation. My understanding comes from off site and not dealing face time face with the people issues involved.
You can see how that technique could also be married to your stand pipe idea as well.12 inch hole cut into the side of the barrel and a 10 inch hole length way. Slide 12 inch pipe down to block flow and lift to allow flow.
2 5 gallon buckets one on either side of a wood gate that’s been plastic wrapped, steal from kitchen, so cement won’t stick to it. Pour cement around it and let set . Slide board up the buckets are your pipe when the because ends are cut off. You would need the gate to extend 3-4 inches on all 3 sides as a seal and removable upward but I’m over explaining, Sorry . Well take what you like and toss the rest mix and blend with you and Jason come up with . If it helps great if not I gave you something to chuckle at . 😜 crazy Jeff out
I was hoping it would work but it was a big ask, and I think it will never work.. I think maybe something can be done where the original slots are.. As an Idea can you build up maybe with concrete 10 inches of concrete at the bottom of the slots then sink your first 2 slots of wood into the concrete and let to set. Then continue with the boards in the slots and fill with mud like before. Just an Idea. Another Idea is to put a thick piece of rubber on base at the bottom of the slots then use the boards again, you can put lots of pressure on the boards and dog them in place. then fill with mud again. good luck cannot wait to see you succeed.
Keep your head up buddy! The negative Nancy’s can pound sand! If. They can do better where you are they would! Someone poisoned your food pits! Someone stole your chickens no one has this bad luck without help! Fish ponds did pretty good because no one could sabotage it. I would analyze everything that turned bad! You seem to have a good heart! I cant buy this! Occams razor!!!
Hey big guy are the existing cuts in the concrete good and level and pretty smooth? If they are couldn’t Tatay make a frame by dadoing those existing plank into a frame like you use in corn shoots ,like the way he makes door frames he’ll just have to notch the long boards to fit in the existing concrete slots and set the planks inside his dads joints on the long 2x4s or whatever you can use those jam stoke for his doors look thick enough, I’m thinking of solutions for as well my friend I want this to succeed for you .Thanks again for the vlogs there my morning news with coffee .
Do you think it could be the actual culvert? Cement is porous and maybe it is the actual concrete wall that is leaking. Like you said that seal looks solid.
can you just sand bag it in tight at high tide and when you need more water or need to exchange water just pull a foot or two of sand bags would not be fun to do but be cheap
The issue with the boards is not a news flash for anyone, I’m certain. I’m just surprised why anyone really thought that such distorted boards would be in any way usable at helping prevent that water flow. Not to beat up on you guys, but really…CUT YOUR LOSSES (again). But you do what you want ‘ cause it’s endlessly entertaining. Carpe diem!
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Understand the problem with getting an accurate time for tides. Looking at it, all the northern ports ( Ubay, Talibon ect ) use the Cebu data.
But jetafe and jagna are earlier by up to 20 minutes.
Seems the flow comes from the south maybe?
This may be difficult, I watched this minutes after you uploaded but only now have come to a possibility some hours later. On the “front” end walls is it possible to put metal channel and fix it to the concrete and have no bottom channel and sink a ,say, 10mm metal sheet to slide up and down. Point being, metal sheet can sink into mud, water can push against back side of channel thereby not letting water through. If channel is fixed to wall and wall is rough it can be sealed. If two metal ‘brackets’ are bolted not welded they can be used to pull up the sheet. The equipment needed may well be on the workshop of the big guy who is the inventor and driftwood carpenter, I think it’s understandable if not I can draw and send to email.
I have made hundreds of water gates in my previous working life,,my opinion is that the wooden slide becomes buoyant,,no pressure is exerted on seal,,in my opinion from my armchair is to place a couple of sandbags on top of the slide to hold it down,,but then again,Brian could be right in his thoughts that the cement around the barrel is not sealing
Dang, sorry Bryan.
Why not tongue and groove the boards with a router?
I was thinking, that maybe an inflatable bladder of some kind between the boards instead of mud. You might have it custom made, but luckily, labor is “cheap”. Also, I was thinking a salvage lift bag might fit in that channel in front of the opening.
The link is come from the top of the barrel i suggest to seal the top of barrel
If you had the budget the some angle iron channel down those channels the boards fit in could be placed and a steel plate (1/4”x?wx6’L)slid between and a winch to slide it up and down. The sheer weight will seal in the mud below. Plywood form at end of barrel and much more mortar completely covering the barrel. I like the 2 sheets of plywood idea too. I know budgets.
Old sluice box could be washout under floor on discharge of water over years when you seal sluice gate if still leaking this could be the problem ..Go find a old boy who has experience and knowledge of fish ponds am sure their around to give advice cost a tenner you don’t know what you don’t know .No need to reinvent the wheel they have been sealing sluice boxes for generations in Asia .Good Luck
I wonder if the same setup you have at your fishpond with the PVC would of work,
Have a look at the video when setting the check valve into place.
6 minutes into the video you were holding back the pond water with the boards and mud.
They couldn’t have been seated down properly before.
Keep it simple,
Thats all i am saying.
Ok call me crazy but hear me out.
With the water out, low tide, and your check gate board in place use a 5 gal bucket as a form and build cement around it to completely encase it about a foot deep all the way around.
It will deduce the flow area but give you an increased seal area. I’d give it a try but I’m not in your situation. My understanding comes from off site and not dealing face time face with the people issues involved.
You can see how that technique could also be married to your stand pipe idea as well.12 inch hole cut into the side of the barrel and a 10 inch hole length way. Slide 12 inch pipe down to block flow and lift to allow flow.
2 5 gallon buckets one on either side of a wood gate that’s been plastic wrapped, steal from kitchen, so cement won’t stick to it. Pour cement around it and let set . Slide board up the buckets are your pipe when the because ends are cut off. You would need the gate to extend 3-4 inches on all 3 sides as a seal and removable upward but I’m over explaining, Sorry . Well take what you like and toss the rest mix and blend with you and Jason come up with . If it helps great if not I gave you something to chuckle at . 😜 crazy Jeff out
Looks like your up shits creek I would ask someone who knows what they are doing
IMO The plywood with the rubber seal is buoyant and floats up allowing water to go under
You guys like to do it the hard way. If you dont have the money to do the job properly… dont do it.
Iam wondering if this hole system ever worked for the people who rented the pond to you in the first place I contune to wish you well?
I was hoping it would work but it was a big ask, and I think it will never work.. I think maybe something can be done where the original slots are.. As an Idea can you build up maybe with concrete 10 inches of concrete at the bottom of the slots then sink your first 2 slots of wood into the concrete and let to set. Then continue with the boards in the slots and fill with mud like before. Just an Idea. Another Idea is to put a thick piece of rubber on base at the bottom of the slots then use the boards again, you can put lots of pressure on the boards and dog them in place. then fill with mud again. good luck cannot wait to see you succeed.
Lots of luck. I like the big pile of sand bags option.
Keep your head up buddy! The negative Nancy’s can pound sand! If. They can do better where you are they would! Someone poisoned your food pits! Someone stole your chickens no one has this bad luck without help! Fish ponds did pretty good because no one could sabotage it. I would analyze everything that turned bad! You seem to have a good heart! I cant buy this! Occams razor!!!
They rent you the pond and you fix the gate. Not a bad deal on their part. Your part remains to be seen. I do wish you guys well.
Hey big guy are the existing cuts in the concrete good and level and pretty smooth? If they are couldn’t Tatay make a frame by dadoing those existing plank into a frame like you use in corn shoots ,like the way he makes door frames he’ll just have to notch the long boards to fit in the existing concrete slots and set the planks inside his dads joints on the long 2x4s or whatever you can use those jam stoke for his doors look thick enough, I’m thinking of solutions for as well my friend I want this to succeed for you .Thanks again for the vlogs there my morning news with coffee .
Do you think it could be the actual culvert? Cement is porous and maybe it is the actual concrete wall that is leaking. Like you said that seal looks solid.
I bet each board was custom made to fit in a proper sequence. Good luck.
When the tide is coming in put some die or food coloring in the water you might be able to detect where the leak is, just a thought.
can you just sand bag it in tight at high tide and when you need more water or need to exchange water just pull a foot or two of sand bags would not be fun to do but be cheap
You square up the boards but how can you square up the slots in the cement?
0:43
vom.in.net
Patience Gentlemen!
It is going to be interesting to see how the final battle with the water is won.
How about MARINE Plywood !?
The issue with the boards is not a news flash for anyone, I’m certain. I’m just surprised why anyone really thought that such distorted boards would be in any way usable at helping prevent that water flow. Not to beat up on you guys, but really…CUT YOUR LOSSES (again). But you do what you want ‘ cause it’s endlessly entertaining. Carpe diem!
After pond is lowered, put a net over the mouth of the gate.
If you dug the pond down below the outlet, you wouldn’t need to depend on the gate. Just let the tide regularly flush out the water for you.
What about using the guy with the ox to plow up that pond and let the tidal action help move out the loose soil?
You’ll get it right! Keep plugging away!